Shrubs, or drinking vinegars, are a fun way to get creative with all kinds of summer produce, from backyard berries to farmers’ market peaches, plums and cherries. Even better, they’re easy to make and serve to folks of all ages.

People have been imbibing vinegar for thousands of years. To understand why this may have started, it might help to know how vinegar is made. Vinegar, at its core, is soured alcohol. Although the word comes from the French vin aigre, or “sour wine,” vinegar can be made from any type of alcohol, including wine, beer and cider. When the alcohol is exposed to oxygen it ferments, and Acetobacter bacteria transform it into acetic acid—that’s what gives vinegar its sour taste.

It’s easy to imagine that early drinking and cooking vinegars were simply accidents of wine gone bad. Instead of discarding this tart liquid, though, people came to appreciate its unique qualities. Because of its ability to inhibit the growth of dangerous microbes, vinegar could be used as an antiseptic to make water safe to drink, as well as to preserve precious herbs, fruits and vegetables. The acetic acid in vinegar can help the body absorb essential minerals—such as calcium— from the foods we eat, and its sour flavor can stimulate saliva production and slake thirst. Vinegar can also extract aromatic compounds and medicinal constituents, such as minerals, from plants.

Folks have been drinking vinegar to reap its health benefits for thousands of years. Around 4000 BCE, the Babylonians fortified their water with vinegar made from date and raisin wines. In ancient China, vinegar made from rice wine was used to promote digestion. Later, the Romans infused vinegar with herbs and mixed it with water to make a beverage called posca, which was served to thirsty soldiers. The relationship between vinegar and warriors also existed in feudal Japan, where samurai drank vinegar to prepare for battle.

Of course, not everyone likes vinegar neat. Our ancestors also mixed vinegar with honey, sugar, molasses and other sweeteners to make healthful syrups and drinks more palatable. The oxymel, which literally means “acid honey,” has been around since antiquity, when Hippocrates prescribed vinegar and honey syrup as an expectorant to ease wet, congested coughs and other ailments.

The shrub takes its name from an Arabic syrup, or sharbât. In contrast to most syrups, however, shrubs are distinctly sour and tangy.

They usually contain fruit, and, at one time, were an effective way to preserve the bounty of the summer harvest. American housekeeping manuals from the 19th and early 20th centuries are filled with recipes for raspberry, cherry and other varieties of shrubs—drinks that became particularly popular during the Prohibition era because they were nonalcoholic yet zippy and refreshing.

Though several methods exist for making shrubs, the most common process involves creating a fruit-flavored vinegar and sweetening it with sugar. The easiest way to serve a shrub is to simply mix it with sparkling water to make a tangy soda.

CRAFTING VINEGAR DRINKS

Always infuse vinegars in very clean containers—at the very least, make sure they’ve been thoroughly washed with hot, soapy water. You can also sanitize or sterilize them to be extra-safe, which is an especially good idea if you’re using fresh fruit or herbs. Fresh ingredients should always be completely submerged in the vinegar to prevent spoilage: If they have a tendency to float, shaking the jar daily will ensure that they soak evenly.

Most drinking vinegars can last for a year or even longer in the refrigerator, especially if you sterilize the container. That said, use your own judgment. If the vinegar is bubbling or if it looks moldy, cloudy or slimy, throw it out.

Tip: Vinegar can corrode metal. If you’re using a metal lid with your infusing jar, place a piece of plastic wrap, waxed paper or parchment paper between the jar and the lid to prevent corrosion.

• If you want to sip a shrub while yours is in process, head to Spruce & Oak Table and Bar in Newhall for a Victoria Sour cocktail (spruceandoakbar.com); or find bottled varieties at stores like Erewhon in Studio City or Follow Your Heart Market in Canoga Park.

Raspberry Shrub

Raspberry shrubs often pop up in 19th and early 20th century American housekeeping manuals, and those early recipes inspired this version. You can easily substitute another berry, or use a different kind of vinegar. For raspberries, I prefer a mix of red wine vinegar and Champagne vinegar, but all-red or all-Champagne works, too.

Check out this recipe

Cherry Balsamic Shrub

Of all the shrubs I make, this marriage of cherries, balsamic vinegar and vanilla bean is always the most popular. I love the bit of luxury it brings to everything it touches. Because balsamic vinegar can be overwhelming on its own (not to mention pricey), I mix it with white vinegar here—and I use raw turbinado sugar, too, which adds a richness that’s missing from ordinary sugar. The Cherry Balsamic Shrub becomes a grown-up cherry cream soda when mixed with sparkling water. As for cocktails, it mixes particularly well with bourbon. For dessert, spoon a teaspoon or more over a bowl of high-quality vanilla ice cream.

Check out this recipe

Stone Fruit Shrub

I turn to this recipe when I have a handful (or more) of almost-overripe peaches, nectarines, plums or apricots that are threatening to devolve into mush if I don’t do something with them right away. Shrubs are one of the easiest preservation projects around, and, whether you use a single variety of stone fruit or a combination in this recipe, it’s really hard to go wrong. Simply chop the fruits and infuse them into a bright mixture of apple cider vinegar and white wine vinegar. For a subtly spiced shrub, add a cinnamon stick. For an herbal rendition, tuck a sprig of rosemary or basil into the mix.

Check out this recipe